LOTS of ants....
Saturday, July 13, 2013
July 13, 2013
Battery was down to about 11.5 and wouldn't start. Jumped it using the truck and she started after a few minutes. Gas level seemed to be what I left it with (no evaporation anymore). Gas, water temp, and amp gauges are working, oil pressure is not. Idling fine, raving fine. Idle at about 11-1200. I could take me foot off the clutch almost immediately and it didn't die.
Wednesday, March 13, 2013
instructions for rebuilding the master cylinder
http://www.ehow.com/how_7728702_rebuild-280z-master-cylinder.html
Saturday, January 5, 2013
It moves! Jan 5, 2013
The drivers side emergency brake was rusted frozen shut. We tried to hammer it to release it and it ended up breaking the cable. Once the cable broke we were able to release the brake from the wheel and then the car would roll. So we drove the car out of the garage and into its parking spot- the standard breaks did not seem to work (doubt there is any fluid) The clutch felt fine and both reverse and 1st gear seemed to engage just fine. Might be some time before I can get back to working on it so here are things I need to do while they are still fresh:
-Refurbish the brakes- add fluid and check lines, any plastic/rubber gasgets or fittings than I can easily replace?
-Check all fluids: coolant, brakes, transmission, differential, oil.
-Bolt down the crane unit.
-Re-tape the ECU harness and bolt the ECU and fuel injection relay back in.
-Find a more permanent solution for the emergency break- order new parts?
-Clean the cold start valve by soaking in injector cleaner.
-Investigate the passenger side lights- both the head light and taillight seem to be dim, maybe a crusty connector somewhere?
-Refurbish the brakes- add fluid and check lines, any plastic/rubber gasgets or fittings than I can easily replace?
-Check all fluids: coolant, brakes, transmission, differential, oil.
-Bolt down the crane unit.
-Re-tape the ECU harness and bolt the ECU and fuel injection relay back in.
-Find a more permanent solution for the emergency break- order new parts?
-Clean the cold start valve by soaking in injector cleaner.
-Investigate the passenger side lights- both the head light and taillight seem to be dim, maybe a crusty connector somewhere?
Friday, January 4, 2013
IT STARTS!!! Jan 4, 2013
Previously I have confirmed that the injectors were now working after I rearranged the battery poles. We were able to test the working of each injector by grounding each one and listening for the "click" sound. All seem to be working except number 5. We pulled out some of the injectors still attached to the fuel and cranked the motor and they were squirting fuel- although not in mist, more like a squirt. So I pulled all the injectors and sat them in injector cleaner overnight. When I put them back in we cranked the car with a few of the injectors out and they seemed to mist more this time. So I had fuel and spark but not ignition at this point. It would backfire a few times but never really start so my timing must be off.
To check where my timing was I took the cam cover off and looked at where the valves were and I rotated the engine with the starter until based on the position of the valves I knew that cylinder one was at TDC. I then checked the crankshaft pull and saw that there was a mark on the pulley and it was close to the advance/retard degree markings. I then realized that my distributer cap was on 180 degrees in reverse and that I needed to turn it around so that spark plug one position was right. I then rearranged all the spark plug wires and put the cap back on. I put the cam cover back on and the car started up almost immediately!
For the first few minutes as the car warmed up I couldn't take my foot off the clutch or else it would stall. However once it got going I could and let it sit and idle.
To check where my timing was I took the cam cover off and looked at where the valves were and I rotated the engine with the starter until based on the position of the valves I knew that cylinder one was at TDC. I then checked the crankshaft pull and saw that there was a mark on the pulley and it was close to the advance/retard degree markings. I then realized that my distributer cap was on 180 degrees in reverse and that I needed to turn it around so that spark plug one position was right. I then rearranged all the spark plug wires and put the cap back on. I put the cam cover back on and the car started up almost immediately!
Thursday, December 27, 2012
Fuel injectors Dec 21, 2012
After realizing that two wires o the battery poles were switched I reversed them back to their proper orientation and my ECU is now properly grounded. Also for the first time, when the car is ON and you depress the flap in the AFM the fuel pump runs which is the first time I have ever heard the pump run on its own/on a signal from the car. So we are still not getting ignition so i will retest the EF circuits and see if the injectors are getting the voltage they need.
EF 2.1 revolution trigger signal still reads 1.6v
EF 2.2 Power line circuit now reads 12.20 volts! first time that has happened - very good news.
EF 2.3 Injectors all show 12.2 volts except injector 5 which shows 11.6! First time this has happened also - very good news
EF 3.1 Starter signal 8 volts during start - seems good enough. The starter is turning after all
EF 3.3 Cold start valve and thermotine switch - reads 8 volts during start
EF 2.1 revolution trigger signal still reads 1.6v
EF 2.2 Power line circuit now reads 12.20 volts! first time that has happened - very good news.
EF 2.3 Injectors all show 12.2 volts except injector 5 which shows 11.6! First time this has happened also - very good news
EF 3.1 Starter signal 8 volts during start - seems good enough. The starter is turning after all
EF 3.3 Cold start valve and thermotine switch - reads 8 volts during start
Wednesday, December 19, 2012
AFM and EF Checks Dec 19, 2012
Removed the AFM and tested all the checks in the manual on pages EF-51 and EF-52.
Passed with flying colors
However there was a ground wire that had been smashed underneath the sensor that was grounding the AFM outer casing to the body which was smashed/pinched/broken. So we remade that wire.
EF-23
2.1 Revolution trigger signal - voltage is 1.6 volts during ON and 0 when key is OFF. The trigger signal wire from the negative side of the coil to the 1 pin on the ECU plug is continuous and good.
When the key is turned to start the voltage increases to 3-4 volts. I am not sure if this voltage is enough or if the 1.6 volts is enough to indicate the "line voltage" that the manual says is an indication of the circuit. -- Not sure--
2.2 Power line circuit. voltage is .15 volts and doesn't change when I turn the car on or off. Between 88a on the relay and pin 10 on the ECI is continuous. 10.8 volts exists at 86c when the car is turned on. 88z and the +pole of the battery is continuous but at a big resistance because of a large fusible link in the way.
NO voltage through the fuel relay. There is positive voltage however the ground is not continuous with the body ground. WORSE! ALL the grounds on the ECU plug and in the fuel relay have no continuity with the body ground. ALL of these grounds converge into one large ground wire the grounds directly to the negative battery terminal. SO there has to be some crack or disruption in this big ground so that all the ECU grounds don't get there much needed ground! Until this gets fixed all of the fuel injection electronics won't work and the car won't start....
Need to find this break....
Passed with flying colors
However there was a ground wire that had been smashed underneath the sensor that was grounding the AFM outer casing to the body which was smashed/pinched/broken. So we remade that wire.
EF-23
2.1 Revolution trigger signal - voltage is 1.6 volts during ON and 0 when key is OFF. The trigger signal wire from the negative side of the coil to the 1 pin on the ECU plug is continuous and good.
When the key is turned to start the voltage increases to 3-4 volts. I am not sure if this voltage is enough or if the 1.6 volts is enough to indicate the "line voltage" that the manual says is an indication of the circuit. -- Not sure--
2.2 Power line circuit. voltage is .15 volts and doesn't change when I turn the car on or off. Between 88a on the relay and pin 10 on the ECI is continuous. 10.8 volts exists at 86c when the car is turned on. 88z and the +pole of the battery is continuous but at a big resistance because of a large fusible link in the way.
NO voltage through the fuel relay. There is positive voltage however the ground is not continuous with the body ground. WORSE! ALL the grounds on the ECU plug and in the fuel relay have no continuity with the body ground. ALL of these grounds converge into one large ground wire the grounds directly to the negative battery terminal. SO there has to be some crack or disruption in this big ground so that all the ECU grounds don't get there much needed ground! Until this gets fixed all of the fuel injection electronics won't work and the car won't start....
Need to find this break....
Interlock system - Dec 18, 2012
Is an error in the interlock system causing the car not to start? The interlock system is either broken or is sensing something is wrong and refusing to let me start the car as it should as a safety feature.
So when the seat belt isn't plugged in on the drivers side and try to start the car there is a buzzer that goes off and beeps a few times. The fasten seatbelt light does not seem to come on.
The ignition fuses are intact. (except the defogger, AC, cigarette lighter, and catalyst lamp)
OR the interlock system has been removed since I can't seem to find either the relay or the unit!
Now that leaves me with wondering how and why I have no power to the fuel pump and the injectors don't fire even when we hotwire the fuel pump.
The fuel pump only runs when the AFM has air going past it. This is the only thing that keeps the fuel pump running when the car is started and you turn the key to run.
Looks like its time to the revisit the EF checks to see which EFI checks are giving me troubles and re-check to the AFM.
So when the seat belt isn't plugged in on the drivers side and try to start the car there is a buzzer that goes off and beeps a few times. The fasten seatbelt light does not seem to come on.
The ignition fuses are intact. (except the defogger, AC, cigarette lighter, and catalyst lamp)
OR the interlock system has been removed since I can't seem to find either the relay or the unit!
Now that leaves me with wondering how and why I have no power to the fuel pump and the injectors don't fire even when we hotwire the fuel pump.
The fuel pump only runs when the AFM has air going past it. This is the only thing that keeps the fuel pump running when the car is started and you turn the key to run.
Looks like its time to the revisit the EF checks to see which EFI checks are giving me troubles and re-check to the AFM.
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